In case anyone does ever visit this blog I thought this might help someone in the future....
I recently had the clutch replaced on my car and after re-assembly the garage found that both keypad lights were on when ignition key was at position 2 and it wouldn't accept the code or start.
They checked all the earthing to no avail so I hit the internet. I did find some useful threads whi I'll list below in case they are of use to anyone else. I personally found that HonestJohn (http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/threads.htm?f=4) Backroom forums were very good and the people on there very helpful.
Anyway - the garage had no luck in solving it so I went out there with my dad who is pretty handy with anything mechanical or electrical. We spent the best part of an afternoon checking earthing and continuity to see if there was anything there but no joy.
My dad spent a bit more time on the net in the evening and found references to the inertia cut-off switch. Now the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual doesn't show that this is connected but it stands to reason that if you need to cut the fuel supply it must stop the fuel pump.
He found that a cable had become dislodged there and that was it - keypad went back to operating as normal!
It took about a week to get my car back but at least we didn't have to carry out the fuel-pump surgery that seemed at one stage to be the only option....
Links:
http://www.ilexa.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,741.0.html
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=59828
http://www.howtomendit.com/answers.php?id=74265
http://www.gsfcarparts.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7054
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/?f=4&t=9597
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/alt.autos.peugeot/browse_thread/thread/345d5e17f3259ecf/b54026c7e23e0700?hl=en&lnk=st&q=306+fuel+pump+immobiliser#b54026c7e23e0700
http://vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/viewthread.php?tid=1845
http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/viewthread.php?tid=1027
Tuesday, 5 February 2008
Friday, 11 May 2007
Disclaimer - I'm not a qualified electrician - I'm just posting this up for information only. If you are not confident in what you are doing, you should employ the services of a qualified electrician. I accept no responsibility for anything you decide to do.
Parts list:
Peugeot part# 6547.AP - Outer Sle - £1.50
Peugeot part # 6542.VQ - CL Clip Holder - £63.54
Maplin Heat-Shrinkable Cable Splicers (part numbers AR60Q - red, AR61R - blue). £3.29 per pack of 10).
Tools:
Multimeter, knife, spanner for battery and door.
Method
WARNING - My local Peugeot dealer told me to ignore the colouring of the cables and ensure that the pin-out matches. The wire diameters should be pretty much the same. Also - if using crimps - some of the smaller wires will need to be folded up (doubled) onto themselves in order not to slip out of the crimp.
The picture below shows the original wiring loom with some temporary solder based repairs.
I chose to use inline crimps but I could have soldered the new loom on.
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove door (take out pin and two door bolts)
3. Cut off old rubber cable cover (replacement part# 6547.AP - cost £1.50)
4. With the existing loom number the cables one at a time. Note - cut a wire close to the plug and make sure you know which pin it goes to. If you don't cut them first it appears that they go to several pins - probably contact in the car. I used a buzzer tester to check continuity and found that a single wire apparently went to more than one pin - confusing at first.....
I chopped them off one at a time (as close as possible to the plug the leave as much original wire as possible) and numbered the car side of the cable as I went - see pic below:
Pin-out of the original connector (1996 1.9 D Turbo):
Key: Connector Pin Number -> Original Cable -> New Cable
3 -> Thick Blue -> Thick Yellow
4 -> Thick White -> Thick Green
5 -> Thin Yellow -> Thin Red
6 -> Thin Red -> Thick Red
8 -> Thick Red -> Orange
9 -> Thin Grey -> Thin Grey
10 -> Thick Orange -> Thin White
11 -> Thin Violet -> Thin White
12 -> Very thin Orange -> Very thin Grey
16 -> Pink -> Thin Green
17 -> Thick Green & Yellow -> Thick BLue
18 -> Thick Purple -> Thick Orange
19 -> Thin White -> Thin Pink
20 -> Beige -> Thin Blue
5. Map pin-out of replacement cable (part# 6542.VQ) with multimeter (double checking the cable numbering).
6. Bundle the extra cables on the new loom together with tape and number mark the wires to be used. This should make life easier later. Make sure you put the replacement (or old if you are reusing) rubber gaiter back on:
7. Now it's time to connect it all up. I attached the crimps to the car side of the loom first starting with the shortest cable and then worked on from there. Check that the wires don't pull out after you complete each crimp. Just make sure you double check the numbers on both sides match as you are attaching them....you should end up with something like this:
I intentionally left a load of spare cable which when finished I pushed down into the door post/strut. This allows plenty of spare cable if any repairs are needed in the future and you can use the extra length rather than needing to cut the original cable any further.
I had to cut the insulation tape (shown in the photo below) back to separate the cables and allow the excess wire to be fed easily down into the door post.
9. As I used heat-shrink cable splicers I had to use a hot-air gun to shrink the plastic down. I had to be careful not to damage the cable when I was doing this. I separated each cable and used a square of metal to shield the other cables as I was shrinking the splices down. All done one at a time. The splices I used seemed to have some sort of glue in them so when they were shrunk down they should keep any damp out pretty well.
10. Finished result:
This is what worked for me. I hope it is of use to someone.
Version 0.5 - Last edited 10th June 2007
Parts list:
Peugeot part# 6547.AP - Outer Sle - £1.50
Peugeot part # 6542.VQ - CL Clip Holder - £63.54
Maplin Heat-Shrinkable Cable Splicers (part numbers AR60Q - red, AR61R - blue). £3.29 per pack of 10).
Tools:
Multimeter, knife, spanner for battery and door.
Method
WARNING - My local Peugeot dealer told me to ignore the colouring of the cables and ensure that the pin-out matches. The wire diameters should be pretty much the same. Also - if using crimps - some of the smaller wires will need to be folded up (doubled) onto themselves in order not to slip out of the crimp.
The picture below shows the original wiring loom with some temporary solder based repairs.
I chose to use inline crimps but I could have soldered the new loom on.
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove door (take out pin and two door bolts)
3. Cut off old rubber cable cover (replacement part# 6547.AP - cost £1.50)
4. With the existing loom number the cables one at a time. Note - cut a wire close to the plug and make sure you know which pin it goes to. If you don't cut them first it appears that they go to several pins - probably contact in the car. I used a buzzer tester to check continuity and found that a single wire apparently went to more than one pin - confusing at first.....
I chopped them off one at a time (as close as possible to the plug the leave as much original wire as possible) and numbered the car side of the cable as I went - see pic below:
Pin-out of the original connector (1996 1.9 D Turbo):
Key: Connector Pin Number -> Original Cable -> New Cable
3 -> Thick Blue -> Thick Yellow
4 -> Thick White -> Thick Green
5 -> Thin Yellow -> Thin Red
6 -> Thin Red -> Thick Red
8 -> Thick Red -> Orange
9 -> Thin Grey -> Thin Grey
10 -> Thick Orange -> Thin White
11 -> Thin Violet -> Thin White
12 -> Very thin Orange -> Very thin Grey
16 -> Pink -> Thin Green
17 -> Thick Green & Yellow -> Thick BLue
18 -> Thick Purple -> Thick Orange
19 -> Thin White -> Thin Pink
20 -> Beige -> Thin Blue
5. Map pin-out of replacement cable (part# 6542.VQ) with multimeter (double checking the cable numbering).
6. Bundle the extra cables on the new loom together with tape and number mark the wires to be used. This should make life easier later. Make sure you put the replacement (or old if you are reusing) rubber gaiter back on:
7. Now it's time to connect it all up. I attached the crimps to the car side of the loom first starting with the shortest cable and then worked on from there. Check that the wires don't pull out after you complete each crimp. Just make sure you double check the numbers on both sides match as you are attaching them....you should end up with something like this:
I intentionally left a load of spare cable which when finished I pushed down into the door post/strut. This allows plenty of spare cable if any repairs are needed in the future and you can use the extra length rather than needing to cut the original cable any further.
I had to cut the insulation tape (shown in the photo below) back to separate the cables and allow the excess wire to be fed easily down into the door post.
9. As I used heat-shrink cable splicers I had to use a hot-air gun to shrink the plastic down. I had to be careful not to damage the cable when I was doing this. I separated each cable and used a square of metal to shield the other cables as I was shrinking the splices down. All done one at a time. The splices I used seemed to have some sort of glue in them so when they were shrunk down they should keep any damp out pretty well.
10. Finished result:
This is what worked for me. I hope it is of use to someone.
Version 0.5 - Last edited 10th June 2007
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